Thursday, December 30, 2021

Rounding Cape Horn

 We were all set for our great Ushuaia tours – Richard was going to ride a horse along the Beagle channel while I was to take a End of the World scenic train to Ensenada Bay. Suddenly, the Captain announced that he had “Bad News” - even though there is no Covid now aboard Jupiter, the local Argentinian authorities would not allow anyone off our ship. He further reported that we would be denied entry to the next stop, Puerto Madryn, where we were to snorkel with the sea lions and visit Peninsula Vales Wildlife Sanctuary.


Cape Horn, 550 Miles from Antarctica 


We could hear the frustration in the Captain's voice. We are disappointed, but it is not Viking's fault. These little places at the end of Chile and Argentina do not have facilities to care for their residents if infected from cruise passengers. Even though none of us on board are sick, we have had breakthrough Covid cases resulting in passengers being removed from our ship. Since it probably takes 5-10 days for new cases to appear, the authorities cannot be certain we won't infect their people. However, our cabin air is filtered, everyone is wearing masks, we are tested daily. I am not sure what else Viking can do! I just hope Viking can survive this Pandemic. It is such a lovely ship with caring crew and a fantastic experience while aboard.

Ushuaia to Cape Horn

December 30 6 AM

45 F , West Wind 28 mph gusting to 36 mph

550 miles from Antarctica, Sailing South to Cape Horn

Lynn and Larry - On March 11, 2002, bundled up like a teddy bear against the near-freezing temperatures and a 50-knot southerly wind, I walked into the Capitan del Puerto's office at Puerto Williams to see a weather fax printout. It showed a potential three- or four-day high-pressure gap between this storm and the next two lows bunched together 800 miles to the west. If we could arrange port clearance, buy final provisions, and sail the 90 miles out through the Canal Beagle and back to our inbound track, we'd  find southeast winds in which to round the Horn.

Got to go tomorrow at first light,” Larry said as we computed the tides. “In fact, I'd like to leave at 0400, before the tide turns.”

March 13, 2002, 1600: Cape Horn aft of the starboard beam...

Excerpt from Cape Horn to Starboard, Cruising World, October 2002 by Lynn Pardey

We departed Ushuaia about 7 PM having been delayed by high winds for about three hours to pleasantly cruise down the Beagle Channel out into the Southern Atlantic Ocean.

Turning West , we awoke to lovely weather for navigating around Cape Horn. This is very fortunate as this is known as treacherous waters and sailors throughout the centuries have viewed this rounding with caution and a little fear.

The Explorers Lounge at the bow of the ship affords amazing views and service. We parked ourselves here while we chatted with fellow passengers, pinching ourselves that we are so fortunate to have this unique experience. We were startled to see a faint rainbow over the rocky islands and of course, we had a photo to mark this occasion.

We approached the Cape Horn Lighthouse on Isla Hornios from the East for photo ops and then turned North to circumnavigate the island to pass the Horn from the West. Having rounded the horn, we have each earned the right to wear a gold earring in the left ear and rest one foot on the table! So much different for our rounding the horn in the Viking Jupiter than Lynn and Larry's passage in their little wooden sailboat, I felt that we have cheated. Well, not really!


We Circumnavigated Isla Hornos to Round the Horn West to East

Leaving Ushuaia

Pilot Boat Retrieving Port Pilot

Beagle Channel Toast

Beagle Channel White Caps

Beagle Channel Penguins 

The White Cliffs of Beagle 

Approaching  Cape Horn from the East

Cape Horn Rainbow to Starboard

Cape Horn Lighthouse Ahead

Cape Horn Lighthouse

Rounding Cape Horn West to East

Cape Horn Astern




2 comments:

Nana on the road.... said...

I am loving all of the photos in your narrative. Hank and I are looking at all of this and feel bad that you can’t get off the ship it is what it is… At least you have a beautiful ship to enjoy and some rest and relaxation while you view the horizons that you see. We look forward to your next updates. Hank and Maureen… Happy new year which is 32 hours from now here in Florida as I write this❤️🎉

Unknown said...

Thanks, Maureen. It is a lovely boat and like being at the finest resort with gourmet food, wonderful lectures and entertainment. Viking treats its passengers royally!