Transiting the Whale

An interesting boat seen after transiting the Whale

Transiting The Whale

In order to get to the “Hub of the Abacos” from the North, boaters have transit the sometimes treacherous Whale Cay Passage. Shoals that extend across the Sea of Abaco force boats drawing more than a few feet to follow a passage out into the ocean and back in again. Swells generated by storms far out in the Atlantic build to twelve feet or more as they enter the relatively shallow water along Whale Cay. Boats attempting to transit the Whale in big swells will find themselves in big trouble. Sometimes a cruiser will just go out and have a look turning back if the sea isn't to their liking.

Richard talked to our new friend Denny who believed the passag ewould be fine Monday and maybe better Tuesday. He checked with a lady in the dive shop who told him the passage should be fine. Finally he called Chris Parker, a well-known weather forecaster who spent many years boating in the Bahamas. Cruisers subscribe to his weather forecasts and every day on the boat, we check to see his latest predictions. Chris Parker assured us that conditions would be fine – and they were. Oddly enough the dock hands at Green Turtle predicted dire consequences for anyone attempting the Whale till possibly Friday. Actually, Denny had already reported a “fine passage” via VHF radio to the Cruisers Net. Nevertheless, the dock hands scared off two Canadian boats whowere planning to go with us. So we went alone.

Captain Richard proudly transited The Whale!

Tuesday morning, Eagle's Wings gently rode two to three feet swells spaced about 7 seconds apart for a benign. As the wind built from ten to twenty knots during the morning we actually experienced less desirable conditions on the inside than we did in the Whale. Because Wednesday (today) was predicted to be squally and rainy, we wanted to be all tucked into a safe marina, do our laundry and shop for some fresh yogurt, lettuce and fruit. So here we are in Marsh Harbor, “big city” of the Abacos.

When we checked into Harbor View Marina, another boater whose boat hailed from Galveston, TX came over to talk to us because he saw our boat's hailing port is Houston, TX. His name was Billy and he's been over here for a few months. I (Joanne) had a great time talking about Galveston. It turns out that he bought the Erin Leddy Jones, a 55-ft research vessel that was previously owned by the Marine Biomedical Institute which I worked for during my 25-year career with the University of Texas Medical Branch. He turned the boat into a snapper fishing boat; it serves still in the commercial fishing fleet out of Galveston.

We used this boat to catch squid and food for the squid. Why were we interested in squid? Well, for many years the NIH funded a project whose goal was to discover the best squid with the largest giant axon nerve to use as an experimental animal for neurobiologists. I loved working on this project and have great memories working with the marine biologists at the university.

This morning, our new South Dakota friends from s/v True North suggested we join them for ribs at the Jib Room Restaurant across the harbor from where we are staying. We are looking forward to seeing them again! Once the weather improves, we will move the boat to a mooring at Hope Town, which is one of the most picturesque settlements here in the Bahamas. We are looking forward to climbing the candy-striped lighthouse. More later.

 

Attending Church

Easter Service on the Beach Treasure Cay

Attending Church

Departing Punta Gorda March 14^th, Eagles Wings arrived a month and day later in the Hub of the Abacos, our destination. Much of our time was spent waiting for weather. Cold front after cold front blew through giving us only a few short days each week to move along.

While waiting in Marathon, we attended a Methodist Church for a service unlike any Methodist service I have experienced. The female minister serving her last day of duty turned the service into a concert singing many of her own songs. Very entertaining!

After crossing the Gulf Stream to the Old Bahama resort at West End, we were held up for a week waiting for yet another nasty front to below through. Blow it did! Boats anchored in White Sound, Green Turtle dragged anchor with two boats ending up on the rocks. While we stayed at West End, Gene & Sue Fuller on Yorkshire Rose proceeded to a marina at Spanish Cay where,completely unprotected, they rocked and rolled as they hung on. As for us, we put out lots of dock lines at the well protected West End harbor and did fine.

Sign of Peace at the little St Michael’s Catholic Church at the West End Settlement was a blessed moment. Everyone including the priest and deacon moved about through the whole church as worshipers greeted each other with strong handshakes and hugs. We were not left out! After the service, refreshments were served before a van from the Old Bahama Resort give us a ride back to the marina. We felt so welcome!

For Palm Sunday we attended an Anglican Church, St Peters, in New Plymouth, an historic settlement in Green Turtle Cay. Before the service, they asked us if we would participate in reading the Passion of Christ. We were honored to do so and again, the welcomes and kindness of the Bahamians was really special. Attending Church is such a great way to meet the native people and they seem to really appreciate having us!

Link to Photos.  We have more photos on the cell phone but will have to wait until we get home to transfer them to the computer and Internet.  

One Month to Abacos

The heavy winds died down (FINALLY) and after several conversations with our new boater friends in West End, it was time to traverse the approximately 100 nautical miles to the "prime" cruising grounds in the Sea of Abaco.  In order to do so, we had to travel due east - and of course the winds were blowing from due east!  That meant we had to go directly into the wind and could not sail.


Up at first light (6:45 AM) since it was a high tide, all 6 boats traveling together, decided to take a short cut through Indian Pass.  It worked well thus cutting off about 15 miles of our journey.  We then turned the engine up as far as we could and made about 5 knots in 2-3 foot seas winds blowing 15-18 knots all the way to Great Sale, a large cay that provided good anchoring protection.  Upon arrival at 4:30 PM, we had a nice dinner and collapsed into bed.


Next day we repeated this scenario (except the seas were rougher and a bit higher) and the boat made only about 4 knots all the way to Spanish Cay.  Yeah!  We were in the Sea of Abaco and the conditions immediately improved.  One of our new boat friends, Deb and Denny, s/v True North, from Deadwood, South Dakota, took a slip nearby.  We soaked in the marina's hot tub and toasted that we had finally made it to the lovely cruising grounds!  We had a wonderful grouper dinner and decided the next day, we would go to Green Turtle Cay just 14 miles away and check into the marina for more recouperation and fun.


Green Turtle is only 3 miles long and 1 mile wide at its widest point with a population of 450.  It is the home of New Plymouth, an English settlement dating from the 1750s.  We rented a golf cart to explore its charming little homes and today will attend one of its only churches, the historic Anglican Episcopal church that was recently refurbished and looks over the harbor.


When we arrived here, our friends the Buschers from the Sail Club were here on s/v Serendipity.  They are awaiting their son and his family, who are flying in from Florida to join them for a week.  Our friends, Sue and Gene Fuller, on s/v Yorkshire Rose went to Double Breasted Cay and are heading back here to join us either today or tomorrow.  Our friends, Diana and Joe Lehr, on s/v Cavalier, are on the mooring ball at Dinner Key, Miami, FL waiting for a weather window to cross over.  We hope they can still join us.


Check out our pictures below by clicking on them!  Our plans are to stay here for a few days and then go through Whale Cut to Treasure Cay..  


Click on Pictures

At West End

We left at 3 AM on Friday morning from Key Biscayne with the lights of the Miami skyline in the distance.  We traveled with s/v Yorkshire Rose crewed by our friends, Sue and Gene Fuller.  We needed to leave during an ideal "weather window" when the seas and winds would be the best for the 90 mile crossing through the Gulf Stream.  It was a warm starry night with winds out of the east southeast at 16 knots. We were hoping the winds would calm a bit, as forecasted, but that did not happen very much!  The seas were a bit confused, with swells between 3 and 4 feet.


About half way through the trip, I (Joanne) decided to go down below for a nap.  Big mistake!  I instantaneously felt queasy and that feeling remained with me through the rest of the trip.  Bleu Kitty found a nice pillow on the floor in the main cabin and hung in there!  He didn't look too happy, but never got sick or complained.


Thirteen hours later we arrived in Paradise!  Whew, we were tired and after a nice meal out, we crashed and spent yesterday cleaning up and recouperating.


We love the Old Bahama Bay Marina and Resort here in West End.  Cost is $3 a foot on the weekend; $2 a foot during the week.  You have all the resort amenities e.g., pool, activities center, bikes, etc. 

We went bike riding yesterday with the Fullers (only one road out of the resort) to a town.  We wanted ice cream and we were told that a lady called Lorri sold it from her home.  So when we got about 1-1/2 miles down the road, we asked the locals and sure enough, they directed us to her place.  She was a very nice lady in her 40's who is a seamstress and also serves ice cream cones out of her kitchen!  So good!

This morning we asked the resort to take us to the local Catholic church, St. Michaels.  They only have one Mass at 8 AM.  It was a lovely service - we were practically the only whites there.  The people were so hospitable.  We loved the singing and the sign of peace and singing happy birthday to those celebrating this week.  Afterwards we had sandwiches, fruit, pastries, coffee, sodas, etc. and everyone spoke to us and we felt so welcome!

The Fullers left today for Great Sale.  Since there is a blow coming in on Tuesday, we decided to stay here.  We will try to join them later. 

Check out some of our photos below by clicking on

Photos !


Postscript:   We met some really wonderful sailors here in the marina - Fred and Joanie on s/v Heavenly Scent from Missouri/Colorado,  Carl & Barbara Bretko on s/v Wind Traveler from Bradenton and Denny & Deb Mills on s/v True North from Deadwood, South Dakota.  Yesterday we all rented a limo to take us on a tour of Grand Bahama Island.  We went to lovely gardens, lunch and shopping at Port Lucaya Marketplace and Marina, etc.  Since we are held up waiting for a windy front to pass, we are having a Storm Survivor Happy Hour on our dock tonite!  We hope to leave either Thursday or Friday when winds and sea calm down again.