Transiting the Whale

An interesting boat seen after transiting the Whale

Transiting The Whale

In order to get to the “Hub of the Abacos” from the North, boaters have transit the sometimes treacherous Whale Cay Passage. Shoals that extend across the Sea of Abaco force boats drawing more than a few feet to follow a passage out into the ocean and back in again. Swells generated by storms far out in the Atlantic build to twelve feet or more as they enter the relatively shallow water along Whale Cay. Boats attempting to transit the Whale in big swells will find themselves in big trouble. Sometimes a cruiser will just go out and have a look turning back if the sea isn't to their liking.

Richard talked to our new friend Denny who believed the passag ewould be fine Monday and maybe better Tuesday. He checked with a lady in the dive shop who told him the passage should be fine. Finally he called Chris Parker, a well-known weather forecaster who spent many years boating in the Bahamas. Cruisers subscribe to his weather forecasts and every day on the boat, we check to see his latest predictions. Chris Parker assured us that conditions would be fine – and they were. Oddly enough the dock hands at Green Turtle predicted dire consequences for anyone attempting the Whale till possibly Friday. Actually, Denny had already reported a “fine passage” via VHF radio to the Cruisers Net. Nevertheless, the dock hands scared off two Canadian boats whowere planning to go with us. So we went alone.

Captain Richard proudly transited The Whale!

Tuesday morning, Eagle's Wings gently rode two to three feet swells spaced about 7 seconds apart for a benign. As the wind built from ten to twenty knots during the morning we actually experienced less desirable conditions on the inside than we did in the Whale. Because Wednesday (today) was predicted to be squally and rainy, we wanted to be all tucked into a safe marina, do our laundry and shop for some fresh yogurt, lettuce and fruit. So here we are in Marsh Harbor, “big city” of the Abacos.

When we checked into Harbor View Marina, another boater whose boat hailed from Galveston, TX came over to talk to us because he saw our boat's hailing port is Houston, TX. His name was Billy and he's been over here for a few months. I (Joanne) had a great time talking about Galveston. It turns out that he bought the Erin Leddy Jones, a 55-ft research vessel that was previously owned by the Marine Biomedical Institute which I worked for during my 25-year career with the University of Texas Medical Branch. He turned the boat into a snapper fishing boat; it serves still in the commercial fishing fleet out of Galveston.

We used this boat to catch squid and food for the squid. Why were we interested in squid? Well, for many years the NIH funded a project whose goal was to discover the best squid with the largest giant axon nerve to use as an experimental animal for neurobiologists. I loved working on this project and have great memories working with the marine biologists at the university.

This morning, our new South Dakota friends from s/v True North suggested we join them for ribs at the Jib Room Restaurant across the harbor from where we are staying. We are looking forward to seeing them again! Once the weather improves, we will move the boat to a mooring at Hope Town, which is one of the most picturesque settlements here in the Bahamas. We are looking forward to climbing the candy-striped lighthouse. More later.