Our last full day was pent on the spectacular northern island of Genovesa and it is one of the most pristine islands in the archipelago. We began with an early morning kayak along the shore where we spotted Nazca and red-footed boobies and tropicbirds along with some small fur sea lions (a different species than what we've seen previously). Later we went on a naturalist led walk. It is amazing that the birds just sit there in their nests or in the mangroves and are not at all afraid of people. Richard and the rest of the photographers were ecstatic because its easy to get some great shots.
The week is flying by and today we visited some islands formed by extinct volcanoes. We did some amazing snorkeling - the tropical fish are very colorful - probably the largest I have seen anywhere. The parrot fish were 2-1/2 ft long!
Later in the afternoon we went on a very challenging 2 mile hike on a lava flow that is about 100 years old. We walked mostly on the ropy lava called "pahoehoe" and tried to avoid the broken up "aa" lava. They had walking sticks for us - which we both needed. The naturalist guides do a wonderful job of explaining the land and plant and animal life. It was just amazing that some very little yellowish plants survive in this foreboding environment. We even saw a few cactus plants! It was quite a contrast against the blue blue water and it reminded us of the Big Island of Hawaii. Later that evening we had a wonderful BBQ on the upper deck of the boat and a star show. The captain turned off all the lights on the boat and the naturalist had a laser pointer. He showed us the Southern Cross and the other major planets, stars and constellations. Just loved it!
Last night the boat repositioned to South Plaza, a volcanic island known for its numerous seabirds and colorful endemic land iguanas. Off we went after breakfast where we learned that the native iguanas were almost wiped out by feral dogs and other non-native mammals. Recently their National Park Service was able to eradicate the offending species and the endangered populations are recovering.
Later we snorkeled Santa Fe Island and saw an amazing coronet fish - and Richard had an encounter with a sea lion who wanted to be photographed underwater. Richard went on an afternoon walk and saw a Santa Fe land iguana. We had a wonderful talk by Lynn Fowler, the Expedition Leader about her Ph.D. Dissertation research on giant tortoises. Tonight the boat will move onto Sombrero Chino (Chinaman's Hat)
We hiked on South Plaza Islet located off the eastern coast of Santa Cruz and on Santa Fe Islet located a few miles to the south. While snorkeling in protected water along Santa Fe, I apparently annoyed a sea lion somehow; watch the video!
Charles Darwin Research Center and
Highlands Santa Cruz
Today was one busy day! The ship
anchored off Santa Cruz (also known as Indefatigable) which is home
to giant tortoises. After landing via zodiacs at the town dock, we
boarded a bus for a short ride to the Tortoise Breeding Center
operated by their National Park Service. Since the tortoise
population of the islands was decimated by the whalers of years gone
by, it is their task to re-establish them so that they will not go
extinct. The program has been very successful; we admired the little
babies that were separated by age and island groups.
We then go our
first glimpse of the giant tortoises – large lumbering shy animals
that have 2 different type of shells. One looks like a saddle and
the other, a curved dome. Later, we boarded another bus for a trip to
the lush green highlands. We visited a coffee and sugar cane
plantation called “El Trapiche” and later had lunch at a Narwhal Restaurant, lovely
place in the rain-forest. We then traveled to see the
tortoises in their natural habitat. We donned boots and traipsed
through muddy fields where we discovered quite a few of them slogging along. We are now back on the boat awaiting dinner. It
was quite a fun day and Richard is pleased with the pictures taken.
We awoke early today for a
pre-breakfast outing, We boarded the zodiacs at 6:30 a.m. - and
headed for Punta Cormorant on Isla Floreana, making a wet landing on a green (olivine) beach. Blue Footed Boobies nested on a bluff above us and dove for fish just off the beach. On our way to a white sand beach with turtle nests. Our guide pointed out
the rare endangered Floreana mockingbird. It was cute. But we really
enjoyed the pink flamingos in the salt pond.
We went back the ship for breakfast (the food here is
super delicious) and then we were off for another zodiac ride
followed by a wonderful snorkeling trip. After yesterday, everyone
was huddling together and extra careful. Not only were the fish
gorgeous, but it was a thrill snorkeling with the sea lions who dove
all around us and have no fear of humans.
In the afternoon, we visited the famous Post Office Bay, where a barrel is still used for an old mail swap tradition going back to whaling ship days of 1793. We addressed post cards and we'll see if other tourists hand deliver them to our addressees! No stamps were needed – it is the good will of the people visiting here. We picked up a card to an address in Sarasota, FL and will deliver it upon our return. Later in the day, we explored some rocky inlets and islands where we spotted 7 penguins (the species is only found here) and some marine iguanas and sea lions. Quite a fun day! Slide Show
We awoke bright and early - 5:00 AM - and enjoyed wonderful kayaking in Gardner Bay on an island called Espanola. A few blue footed boobies and marine iguanas hung out on the cliffs and a sea lion checked out the kayaks. We then headed back for breakfast. A Snorkeling Tragedy
After a snorkeling briefing, we boarded the zodiacs for a wonderful time - except, a tragedy occurred. One of the passengers, a lady of 65, was founded dead in the water! It was so sad. Her husband was supposed to be her buddy in the snorkeling and he became preoccupied picture taking. No one knows what happened, but we suspect she had a heart attack. We now have to go back to the island of San Cristobal and the Ecuadorian police are here taking her and her husband off the boat and doing an investigation.
We are so sad for them. We are waiting to see what happens next. The crew hopes to continue the voyage. We went to the beach
Post script
The authorities picked up the man and his deceased wife and they flew home to Illinois. (They put her in a beautiful wood coffin with a large cross on it.) We then continued the voyage. Getting it Wrong and Getting Lucky Again Today was not a good day for my photography. Perhaps there just wasn't enough light for my little point and shoot camera I carried for the early morning kayaking. All my photos were terrible. Snorkeling, my underwater photos were worse. The battery in my GoPro was dead. A water drop on the lens of the little camera spoiled most of my photos of the sea lions on the beach. Live and learn. We were supposed to buddy together, Joanne and I while snorkeling. But I got a little behind taking photos and then the heel strap on one my fins came completely off. I tread water for while getting the strap back on and when I looked up Joanne was gone. I looked around and couldn't see here anywhere. Our group including Joanne and our guide had quickly moved far down the shore as they followed sea lions. Joanne had one of her best days snorkeling ever. I wasted a lot of time looking for her. For the rest of the trip, we did better at budding-up.
Galapagos Islands – Darwin's
exploration of rare species of animals found only on these remote
islands off the coast of Ecuador – this was a destination high on
our “bucket list.” Last year we received a National Geographic
advertisement offering free airfare from Miami if we booked a 10 day
excursion. After a short minute of discussion, we were “in” for
this opportunity. The day finally arrived. We headed down the
highway to Miami Airport and boarded our plane for a 4-1/2 hour
flight to Guayaquil, Ecuador. This is the largest city in here –
close to 3 million people. Customs was a breeze through this modern
airport. We were whisked away to the Hilton where we spent a short
night since there was a 5:30 a.m. wake up call. We stumbled down to a
wonderful breakfast and headed for our next flight, a 1-1/2 hour
journey to San Crisobel where we jumped on a 12 passenger zodiac for
a quick trip in the harbor to our beautiful ship, the National
Geographic Islander. Our cabin is a lovely compact room with a
comfy queen size bed, little bathroom with shower and a nice desk for
writing emails.
We participated in a mock abandon ship
drill and then were briefed on the week's activities. After lunch we
rode on a zodiac (called “panga” here) and made a wet landing on
a soft sandy beach for our first exploration on national park land,
at a site known as Cerro Brujo, which translates as “Wizard Hill.”
We saw sea lions, a marine iguana and shore birds and swam in the
turquoise water. The sea lions and other animals have no fear of
humans. They laid in the sand close to us! Early to bed for us –
tomorrow we have another early wake up call so we can participate in
kayaking before breakfast.
We love boating. So far, we've owned 3 sailboats, two called Eagle's Wings, and a beautiful Mainship Trawler called Indigo Star. Currently, we have a small power boat, a Jeanneau 28 ft, called Lickity Split. We've sailed the Texas and Florida coastlines including the Keys and the Bahamas. Also, we've chartered boats in Polynesia (Tahiti area), Belize, Croatia, Midi Canal in France, Bahamas and Virgin Islands.
We also enjoy traveling to other countries, sometimes with the Friendship Force.
We retired to Punta Gorda Isles Florida and in 2008 started this blog about our life here. Read all about our great Retirement Adventures. Enjoy!
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